Helsinki

Helisnki is stylish, understated chic. The city doesn't try to awe you with a profusion of overpowering cathedrals and mansions,  like London and Paris. Instead, the city manages to be sleek and elegant without too much of a fuss. Walk around its broad streets, spot an impressive neo-Gothic structure and quietly let the city work its charm on you. 

The city has the feel of a slightly large port town, the kind where everyone knows everyone else. Helsinki's jewel is its harbour. Sparkling crystal blue waters, cradled by a lush, green and incredibly well maintained gardens. On a misty day, the fog on the nearby islands creates a magical, Middle-world feel. It was surreal. 

Finalnd is shockingly expensive. Cheap eats don't seem to exist and a tiny train ride can cost you upto 34 euros! My carefully planned budget took a beating. No wonder people in Helsinki seemed soo happy. They must be ridiculously rich to be able to live here. 

I loved Helsinki. It had a beguiling, unpretentious charm about it. I wish I had had more time to explore. If only I had known how charming the city  would be, I would have planned to spend more time there. On second thought, I probably would not have been able to afford it. 

Berlin Love: Part I

To tell you the truth, I didn't have very high expectations from Berlin. After all, I was coming here after visiting London, Paris and Switzerland. Sure, Berlin's nightlife was legendary but that's not really my scene. So, I came to Berlin ready to be underwhelmed.

I am happy to report that I was monumentally wrong. In fact, Berlin may even edge out London and Paris. My first night here I went to the East End Galleries to view paintings on the remnants of the Berlin Wall. In many ways, this experience summed up Berlin for me: it is historical, beautiful, terrible, open, seedy, artistic and downright bizarre. Berlin has the one thing that is becoming increasingly rare in a McDonalds dominated world: atmosphere. And lots of it. 

There is graffiti everywhere in Berlin. This in large contributes to its artsy, dingy feel, I think. Sometimes its obvious that the person who has sprayed it is a drunk fool, sometimes its so moving you wonder if the Dalai Lama was wandering the streets of Berlin. Berlin also has bars everywhere: in tumbling old buildings, subway stations, museums, you name a flat surface and they have a bar there. I love it!

If you want to see more fabulous Berlin street art, visit http://berlinstreetart.blog.de/

I did walking tours, visited the Holocaust Memorial and various museums (which I shall talk about it in a different post). The one thing that struck me about Germans was how wonderfully honest they were. There was no covering up or dilution of the country's terrible past. They didn't pin the blame for past state crimes on someone else or blame it on media propaganda (which believe you me would have been the case in India). They were honest, contrite, apologetic, cautious and in my books that is the only way to move forward. 

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Museums

Berlin also has some incredible street food. Here's a list of my top 3 places:

a) Mustafa : I adore this place. Their Gemuse kababs are tasty, filling and easy on the wallet. Meatlovers must try their donor kebabs. 

It tastes fabulous

Brave the long queues at Mustafa

b) Burgerweister: I have never been a huge fan of burgers but theirs made me a convert : Huge, juicy and with an explosion of flavours. Vegetarians need not despair. They have a pretty good veggie burger with an interesting mango sauce. 

c) Curry 36: Famed for its Berliner Currywurster, this place is perenially plagued with long queues. There was too much ketchup in it for me to really enjoy the dish but it is something you must try when you are here. 

Switzerland

Switzerland is all kinds of beautiful. Lush, green meadows; clear, sparkling streams; virgin, snow-capped mountains - the picturesque beauty stretches on for miles and miles and miles. I don't think there are any wrong turns in this country. Each region has its own distinct charm and I found very little to complain about in my week long stay here. Use the scarily efficient Swiss rail system to get around.

 

 

If you can visit only one place in the country, then I highly recommend Montreux. The sight of the towering Alps suddenly giving way to calm sparkling waters is breathtaking. If there is one thing I will be taking away from this trip, it is that image.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will also be taking away the many layers of fat I have acquired due to a gluttonous indulgence in chocolates, baked goods and cheese.

However, all of this comes at a price, a very high price. Switzerland is mindblowingly expensive. It's not expensive in a cute, "Oh! I overshot my budget" kind of way. It's expensive in an alarming "Holy cow! I am going to have to get a second job once I get home" kind of way.

If you do have the money or delusionally think you do (like me), then Switzerland is the way to go. The tourist infrastructure is truly amazing, the people are kind, friendly and always willing to help. 

Everything in Switzerland borders on perfection and when you are here, it's really easy to believe that life is a little perfect too. I suggest you go there and indulge in a little day-dreaming but be ready to loosen those purse strings.

Bon Voyage!

I haven't been blogging for a bit but things have been crazy. I quit my job, and am currently spending my meager savings on a super budget backpacking trip around Europe. What do you pack when you are on the move for seven weeks? It's a good question and I am not entirely sure I have the answer but let me show you what I am taking with me.

My ratty old phone

A bunch of books

A medium-sized backpack

I have spent the last week in the City of Lights and it is as beautiful as I remember. Paris is incredible and I have talked a lot about it in previous posts. I am just going to leave you with a few images from in and around Paris.

Versailles 

Somewhere in Paris

Sacre Cour

Again

Yummy Macaroons

A bird's eye-view of Paris

Gardens

I am heading to the Swiss Alps tomorrow and will try posting as and when I have access to a computer. If any of you have suggestion on places to visit, want to join me or offer me free boarding anywhere in the continent, hit the message boards (or my inbox). 

Ceylon Stories: Unawatuna

After Galle, we reluctantly dragged ourselves towards the beach haven of Unawatuna. Una is ten mins away from Galle. The best option is to take the bus. It will cost you 10 Sri Lankan rupees and its pretty comfortable. Cabs, which seem to be incredibly popular with tourists, are too expensive and just not worth it. It's a short five minute walk from the bus stand to the beach. 

Unawatuna is gorgeous. Myth has it that Una is the beach paradise that Valmiki describes in the Ramayana. And its not hard to imagine why the gods would want to live here. The sea is a beautiful blue, the sunlight sparkles and everything looks gorgeous. Guest houses and restaurants are on the beach (literally) and afford a magical view. The one thing that struck me about Una (and SL in general) was how incredibly clean it was. It was super crowded, but there wasn't a single piece of paper floating in the ocean or discarded wrappers all over the place. So spotlessly clean. Indians could learn a lot from this island nation. 

Prettiness much 

Una is also a major party place and one of the clubs on the beach is always having a huge, dance party (at all times of the day). If thats your sort of thing, you will find a lot of like minded people.

I highly recommend going for an early morning walk. I went for a few and they were a lot of fun. I witnessed the burial ceremony of a giant turtle, saw people partying at 7:30 am (the place is called Cafe Riddim, in case anyone is interested) and spotted a really strange guy who decided to run along the beach in a pink bathrobe and a cowboy hat. It was interesting, to say the least. 

Ah! The joys of being a beach bum

For all its beauty, Una is kind of terrible. The restaurants were right on the beach, and a big strong wave could have washed all of them. It cannot be ecologically friendly. Most of the sand has been tarred and built upon, and there is just a tiny 5 feet stretch where you can sun yourself. Most restaurants are too expensive and the people are less nice, less friendly. While I enjoyed my time in Una, there was something immensely unlikable about the place. And I can't quite tell you what it was. The beach was pretty, there were some fabulous restaurants (read below) and it was very safe but....... there was something missing, something shallow about the whole experience. 

Despite all that, there are two very good reasons to visit Una: Dream House and Nathilu's. These are two incredible restaurants that you simply must visit when you are in SL. 

Dream House is located inside, away from the beach and has a magical ambience. The food was soooo good. Some of the best pasta I have tasted in a looong time: the ingredients were fresh, the flavour was wonderful and quantities were huge. The food is a little expensive but its worth every penny you pay, and more. I really wish I lived closer to this place.

Some of the best food I have had in a looong time

Our other great find in Una was Nathilu's. Their Sri Lankan breakfast was very, very, very good. String hoppers, stew (veggie or fish), sambol and a gigantic thambili : It was undoubtedly my favourite breakfast of the trip and total value for money. I didn't make it here for dinner/ lunch but I imagine that would be pretty incredible too. Remember that you need to pre-order their Sri Lankan breakfast (the previous night). 

Be sure to head to these places when you are in SL. And let me know what you think.